Articles
NEUTERING YOUR MALE DOG
Neutering is best for your dog’s physical health. It totally eliminates his risk of testicular cancer and greatly decreases the likelihood of prostate enlargement and malignancy. It virtually eliminates the gooey discharge that is usually found at the end of the penis of intact adult males.
Neutering is also best for your dog’s behavior. Unneutered males often begin to “hump” toys or furniture or even people in the household. They are more territorial and can become excessively aggressive to people and other animals. Their intact male odor encourages other aggressive dogs to attack them. Unneutered males are often difficult to keep at home. They tend to wander because they are constantly looking for females. They can smell that fine perfume of females in heat from miles away—and off they go. On the way, they don’t watch for traffic, may get shot for trespassing, and may not remember the way home. Intact males also feel the need to mark territory by annoyingly urinating on many upright items—plants, walls, doors, etc. They may actually be impossible to “housebreak” because they will not stop marking indoors.
Once your young dog is neutered, he will probably be less fidgety and nervous and more content to catch a nice snooze in the sun. You will want to monitor his weight, being careful to combine exercise and diet to keep him slim and trim. Field dogs will still be avid hunters. House pet types will simply have less of the unwanted behaviors mentioned above. Of course, neutered dogs are incapable of fathering puppies that would add to the overwhelming homeless dog population. (Yes, even if you do find “good homes” for all of the puppies from your male, that simply fills homes to which other unwanted pups could have gone.)
Dogs neutered later in life usually improve considerably in those testosterone-driven behaviors already noted. But some things, especially wandering and biting may have become entrenched habits and may continue to be somewhat problematic.
So, for the health of your male dog and for the good of the community, please neuter him by 6 months of age. He may not thank you on the day of the surgery, but he will lead a happier, healthier, more adjusted life as a well-accepted household member.

HOUSE DUST ALLERGIES
WHAT IS HOUSE DUST?
Many pets (and people) suffer from allergies to the components of “house dust”. The main culprits here in the north are the microscopic house dust mites and molds. Cockroaches factor into the mix farther south. House dust is made of microscopic house dust mites (alive and dead) and their tiny fecal pellets of half digested food, flakes of skin from you and your pets, bacteria, viruses, and fungi as well as non-organic debris.
Within a short time after construction, all enclosed dwellings have some house dust, no matter how often or how well you clean. In fact, the act of cleaning may actually stir up this dust and increase allergy symptoms temporarily.
House dust mites are related to spiders and scorpions. Our two main house dust players are Dermatophagoides farinae and Dermatophagoides pteronyssinus. House dust mites are the most common allergens in dogs, cats, and people! They feed on skin flakes, bacteria, viruses, and fungal spores. Interestingly, they thrive especially in mattresses, the older the better, with a particular taste for those contaminated with dried semen. Pillows, carpets, and upholstered furniture are also favorites. House dust mites love plush! In comparison, skin cells shed on hard, dry surfaces become too dry to attract these mites. House dust mites actually prefer to dine upon the shed skin cells of individuals who themselves have allergic skin disease or skin cells from older people because of lower lipid (fat) levels in their cells.
Temperature and humidity are very important to house dust mites. They need adequate moisture in their tissues to function. Additionally, skin flakes are not a balanced diet for them and they require the fungal spores to provide minerals and vitamins. Fungi thrive in warm and humid conditions. Consequently, house dust mites love temperatures consistently between 70 and 90 degrees with high humidity.
Molds may also be allergens in some individuals. Without allergy testing, it is difficult to determine their exact roles in the symptoms of a particular patient. Are they a great food source for mites or are they causing allergic reactions themselves? Molds are not always visible in your house. In addition to adequate moisture, molds also require a nutrient substance on which to grow. Wallboard, damp wood, fabrics, leather, paper products, and the sponge at your kitchen sink are great. They can also grow on concrete or the dirt on windows or window frames. Other sources are food products, particularly vegetables, fruits, and breads. Molds produce microscopic spores that spread through the house on air currents.
SYMPTOMS OF HOUSE DUST ALLERGIES
House dust mites and molds cause differing symptoms with varying intensities in different victims. In allergic individuals, exposure to even a small amount of an allergen can cause production of a type of antibody, Immunogloulin E (IgE). This IgE starts the allergic inflammatory response that results in any combination of the following:
Sneezing, discharge from eyes or nose, coughing, difficulty in breathing Excessive grooming Scratching/licking/chewing of paws, armpits, groin, rectal area (Light-colored fur may turn brownish from saliva staining.) Scratching ears, shaking head, reddened ears that may even feel warmer than normal Moist dermatitis (hot spots)—sudden rapidly expanding wet sores that cause uncontrollable itching and ultimately are overtaken by bacterial infection Minimize carpeted areas and fabric-upholstered furniture Clean thoroughly and frequently with central vac or vacuum with HEPA filter (and consider using a HEPA filter air cleaning system in the room where the allergy prone pet sleeps or spends a lot of time). Remove allergy patient from the environment while you are cleaning and for several hours afterwards while dust settles. Open windows if weather is appropriate (and pollen count, smog concentrations are low). Do not smoke indoors because tobacco smoke often worsens allergy symptoms and second hand smoke is much denser at the height of your pet’s nose than it is at your own. Wash scatter rugs, cloth toys, and human and pet bedding often, preferably in hot water, weekly. (Tea tree oil or benzyl benzoate may be somewhat effective in cold water.) Use allergen-blocking mattress and pillow covers Equip a forced air furnace or air conditioning unit with a high efficiency media filter with a MERV rating of 11 or 12. Leave the fan on when not heating or cooling so that it continuously filters the air. Have heating and AC units inspected every 6 months. To prevent problems with mold, Use a dehumidifier when humidity surpasses 50 percent. Avoid vaporizers and humidifiers Use vent fans to remove moisture from bathrooms and kitchens Repair any water leaks See the following sites to further address mold:http://www.epa.gov/mold
LONG TERM USE OF NSAIDS IN CATS
PANEL RESULTS FROM INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF FELINE MEDICINE (ISFM)
AND AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF FELINE PRACTITIONERS (AAFP)

Chart for client handout: http://www.catvets.com/uploads/PDF/NSAIDsClient%20Handout.pdf
CONTRAINDICATIONS/VERY CAREFUL MONITORING AND DOSAGE (or use opiates):
- Cardiac Drugs: Diuretics, ACE inhibitors, β-blockers, digoxin (complications from dehydration, blood pressure changes, or competitive protein binding)
- Glucocorticoids (GI complications)
- Drugs that are highly protein bound and have low margin of safety (NSAIDS are highly protein bound and can displace other protein bound drugs such as warfarin, digoxin¸anticonvulsants like phenobarbital, and chemotherapeutic agents.)
SYMPTOMS OF PAIN IN CATS may be very subtle. They include withdrawing from attention, decreased mobility, reduced interactions with humans or other pets, poor appetite, and aggression.
CAUSES OF PAIN IN CATS
- Degenerative Joint Disease(DJD) is the most common. It is thought to affect 60 – 90% of cats in the spine or legs. Treat for obesity, give mild exercise, make environmental modifications to assist mobility.
- Neoplasiatreatment is sometimes aided by concurrent treatment with NSAIDS. This is in addition to making the cat feel better.
- Trauma
- Lymphoplasmacytic gingivo-stomatitis
- Idiopathic cystitis
- Skin disease
- Uveitis
- Fever
CYCLO-OXYGENASE/LIPOXYGENASE INHIBITION (COX/LOX) enzymescause pain by aiding in production of prostaglandins and leukotrienes. NSAIDS block the actions of COX and LOX enzymes. Prostaglandins play important roles in normal physiology involving many systems such as vascular homeostasis, gastroprotection, renal developmenet and blood flow, blood clotting, bone metabolism, wound healing, nerve development and growth, and immune responses. They are also involved in the pathological processes of pain and inflammation and cancer progression.
- COX-1 is found at pretty constant levels in most tissues unless it is increased due to an exciting factor causing it to help create inflammation. COX-1 is most usefully active in protecting cells in the gastric mucosa, maintaining normal platelet function, and maintaining renal perfusion.
- COX-2 shares with the COX-1 enzyme, many of the above-mentioned functions and is found at fairly constant tissue levels. COX-2, however, rises to dramatically higher levels in the presence of inflammation. It is more of an induced enzyme.
- COX-3 is now recognized as a variant of COX-1 and it seems to have a role in central pain control.
- 5-LOX enzymes are being researched now but no COX/LOX inhibitory drugs are approved at this time.
SIDE EFFECTS OF NSAIDS occur when the normal physiological roles of prostaglandins and leukotrienes are interrupted. Inhibition of COX-1 functions seem to be most problematic. So, drugs were developed that were called either COX-1 sparing or COX-2 preferential NSAIDS. Debate exists as to whether this is the best approach. COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes may affect the same tissues in different ways, requiring both to be present for normal function. This leads some to prefer drugs that inhibit both COX-1 and COX-2 (dual inhibitors).
Researchers are looking at inhibition of COX leading to increased LOX activity, another problem in the mix. Also, since most NSAIDS are weak acids, ion trapping can occur when extracellular pH is lower than intracellular, affecting the liklihood of side effects. There is little solid research in felines and in vitro studies do not always predict in vivo responses. Therefor, NSAID product choice and dose for each unique individual results in great variability in the severity or liklihood of adverse drug side effects. ISFM/AAFP panel recommends that there is little predictably deciding data from cats and that probably the COX-2 preferential drugs may be only slightly superior if at all in blocking pain with the least adverse side effects.
CLIENT COMPLIANCE is always an issue. Meloxicam liquid is suggested to be highly palatable for cats. Other drugs can be compounded. Liquid products can be measured in increments that may more accurately fit the weight of the patient. Send home a clearly marked syringe for accurate dosing.
DOSAGE AND TIMINGare very important because some of these drugs are slowly metabolized.
- Most NSAIDS are metabolized through the liver and so liver function affects dose. Piroxicam and meloxicam ar metabolized by oxidation instead.
- There is no practical way to predict which cats may be fast or slow metabolizers. Use the lowest dose that works.
- If the cat will not eat, do NOT administer the NSAID.
- Dosage may change with time. Periodically, withdraw or reduce dosage of NSAID to see if its continued use at that specific dose is justified. Use criteria of mobility, activity, grooming, and temperament to assess level of comfort. Encourage clients to journal under these four headings.
- Peaks and troughs in NSAID activity may be timed to either fit the patient’s preferred schedule of activitiy OR may be timed so that the patient is least active when the owner is sleeping.
- Obese cats should initially have NSAID dosages determined by what their ideal body weight might be.
- When adjusting NSAID dosages, prefer to change amount of drug rather than interval of dosing.
- Panel does not recommend pulse therapy unless underlying cause of pain waxes and wanes.
SWITCHING DRUGS has little evidence-based data.
- Switching from aspirin to NSAIDS requires washout period of 7 to 10 days.
- Switching between NSAIDS thought to need washout of 3 to 5 days or potentially even longer if previous NSAID has a prolonged half-life.
CONCOMITTANT DISEASES AND CONDITIONS affect dosage and usefulness of NSAIDS. DO NOT give NSAIDS if patient does not eat.
-
Renal Diseasemay force a lowered NSAID dose because normal adequate kidney function may depend upon the normal positive effect of prostaglandins.
- Be especially careful to have adequate organ perfusion during surgery. Prostaglandin levels become crucial when there is low renal blood flow and so NSAIDS can cause Acute Kidney Failure (AKF).
- Annectdotally, Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD) patients generally showed no worsening of blood chemistries when they were maintained on oral meloxicam at .02 mg/kg/day or on oral piroxicam at doses of .2 to .3 mg/kg/day on long term bases.
- Get baseline serum and urinalysis data before embarking upon long term NSAID useage. Monitor blood chemistries regularly and respond accordingly if kidney function begins to deteriorate. Opioid therapy may replace NSAIDS if necessary.
- Use wet diet to increase water consumption.
- Extreme caution should be used when cardiac disease is also present. Lowest possible doses and careful monitoring still allow NSAID use where needed.
- Monitor K+.
-
Gastrointestinal Disease is the most common side effect of NSAID usage in mammals.
- Vomiting occurred in 16% of cats in one large study of piroxicam but these cats were in a cancer study and getting other drugs as well.
- Vomiting occurred in about 4% of cats receiving .1 mg meloxicam daily over a long term.
- Upper GI bleeding is the most common serious adverse side effect.
- Factors increasing the risk include, age, dosage, previous NSAID GI disease, pre-existing GI ulcers, and concurrent anti-coagulant or glucorticoid use.
- Can use a mucosal protectant such as a prostaglandin analogue (ie. misoprostol at 5 µg/kg PO q8h) or a proton pump inhibitor (ie. omeprazole at .7 to 1 mg/kg PO q24h).
- If GI bleeding or ulceration occurs, stop NSAID until healed. Resume carefully, using mucosal protectants listed above.
-
Cardiovascular Disease patients’ risk of using NSAIDS is virtually unknown.
- Hypertensive cats receiving NSAIDS should have BP monitored closely.
- Titer NSAIDS to lowest possible dose.
- High prevalence of thromboembolic disease in cats makes it questionable whether long term therapy might increase chance of embolism as it does in some humans.
-
Liver Disease due to long term NSAIDS is occasional in other species and we may see it eventually in cats as NSAID therapy becomes more commonplace.
- Monitor liver enzymes routinely.
- Dose reduction should be considered in cats with pre-existing liver disease. In the presence of severe liver dysfunction (eg, as evidenced by moderately to severely elevated bile acids.) and/or hypoalbuminemia (of any cause), NSAIDS should be used with extreme caution, if at all.
MONITORING CAT ON NSAIDS
- Before beginning treatment get good history, including all other drugs recently or currently in use. Blood pressure reading, chemistries focused on renal and hepatic systems along with plasma proteins and hematocrit. These considerations direct frequency of future monitoring and may impact dose or even cause the clinician to seek other remedies.
- Client information about monitoring and signed acknowledgment of risk prevent misunderstandings and help create a successful outcome. The client should cease treatment and discuss changes with the veterinarian whenever a new problem arises.
-
Routine monitoring during treatment is crucial.
- Initial reassessment at 5 to 7 days (or sooner if complications arise) could be done in the clinic or over the phone.
- Next reevaluation should be at 2 to 4 weeks depending upon owner’s observations and perceived risk by veterinarian.
- Continuing reevaluations should be done every 2 to 6 months determined by informed evaluation of risks.

FAT CATS ARE NOT COOL!

Feline obesity in western societies has increased as dramatically as obesity in people, affecting similar numbers between 15% and 35% of the population of pet cats. For felines, a weight 20% or more above the ideal is considered obese. Most adult cats should weigh between 7 and 11 pounds. So, sadly, an increase of only about 1 ½ to 3 ½ pounds can make your kitty part of those unhappy, statistics.
Many of the unhealthy side effects of carrying around this extra fat mirror similar conditions in people. We see much more diabetes now than we did years ago when our kitties were more fit. (Cats are notoriously difficult to regulate on insulin.) Other common complications of obesity are fatty liver, lower urinary tract disease, arthritis, and the issues that go along with decreased ability to self-groom, especially important in long-haired cats.
Reasons for obesity all involve too many calories going in and/or not enough energy burned. Individual risk factors that encourage excessive weight gain are hormonal changes from neutering, genetic predisposition, and other hormonal imbalances. It is a LOT easier to keep weight off than it is to lose it, so be wary even in juvenile kitties. We want to be able to feel ribs easily but not too sharply. Check with your veterinarian if you are in doubt about your cat’s ideal condition.
We usually neuter or spay cats when they are about 6 months old. That is also when they have reached most of their adult size and they begin to significantly slow the growth of their frames. We really need to watch (and accurately measure) the amount of food they eat. Most cats will become overweight if their bowl is kept full. The pet food industry is in the business of selling as much food as they can and they generally use young, active, unspayed or unneutered cats in their food trials. They lace foods with all kinds of flavor enhancers just like the local human fast food places do to keep us eating too much. A good rule is to feed your cat about 30% less than what the food bag indicates when feeding regular off the shelf foods. Then keep monitoring weight, feeling the rib cage for changes.
For many years, we said that it was healthier to feed only dry food to cats because it maintained cleaner teeth. Now, researchers tell us that feeding only dry food, especially to an overeater, does not encourage enough liquid intake in cats. This may lead to constipation and lower urinary tract disease. This is another reason to eliminate the always full bowl of crunchies that adorns so many kitchens. Canned foods are recommended now by most nutritionists.
Our cats used to be outdoors a lot; many have become totally indoor couch potatoes due to the dangers and restrictions of the outside world. Exercise will normally increase significantly if cats go outside safely. A fenced yard is great. Otherwise, playing with your cat indoors with pounce toys and laser lights or rolling a milk bottle ring will have to do. Provide a cat tree that encourages climbing. Rotate toys by putting some away for a while. When a toy comes back out, it will seem new. Exercise not only helps maintain and create calorie-burning lean muscle mass; it promotes heart health, provides mental stimulation, and increases metabolic rate.
Our felines are true carnivores. They require a much higher protein than many other species and they actually are poorly suited to utilize carbohydrates that typically make up a lot of dry food content. Our goal for the overweight cat is to create or at least retain maximum lean muscle mass which naturally burns more calories for maintenance. If feeding dry food, researchers tell us to look ideally for those that have greater than 45% ME as protein. (ME is metabolizable energy.) Feeding this high protein diet increases metabolic rate, fat oxidation, and glucose tolerance when compared to feeding the same number of calories of higher carbohydrate diets. Since we need to restrict total food intake to get weight loss, the protein content of that smaller amount must be very high to prevent loss of calorie-burning lean muscle.
Diet foods often add significant fiber to make cats feel full. While fiber dilutes calories, spreads out energy absorption, and speeds food through the digestive tract, it has some detrimental effects as well. Most importantly, it causes reduced digestibility of the protein that is so important. Also, greater fiber content (above 15%) increases stool volume and constipation while lowering palatability and causing dry skin. Research indicates that between 5 and 12% is a good range for fiber in a dry food weight loss diet. Cats on high protein/low fiber diets seem to complain less than when they eat a higher fiber diet.
So, what are some specific foods that can help us with weight feline weight loss? I asked Dr. Debra Zoran, a real expert in the field. For dry food, she suggested Royal Canin High Protein Low Calorie and Purina
Delivery of the daily food allotment is also important. Cats’ metabolisms are set for small meals often. Ideally, we can split the proper amount of daily food into at least 2 and preferably 4 feedings. The ideal 4 feedings of canned food require someone to be at home to dish out these small meals, but creative owners can modify schedules to fit their own. Some feed a small meal of canned food in the morning. They set the automatic feeder to feed 2 meals of dry food during the day. Then, they feed another meal of canned at night. Some folks use just the dry food and get along fine by using an automatic feeder. The critical thing is that you don’t feed more than the proper amount in a whole day. If you have multiple cats in the household, especially if they have differing dietary needs, you need to have individual dishes and pick them up after each feeding or leave cats physically separated when you cannot supervise. Cats can lose weight on twice daily feeding where schedules don’t allow other options. Remember that treats often have a
The goal is to lose about 1% body weight per week or about 3 to 4% per month. More rapid weight loss than that can increase risks of liver disease. In a 15 pound cat, that would be about 2 ½ ounces per week or 7 ½ to 9 ½ ounces per month. You can accurately weigh your cat at your local vet clinic. If that is impractical, weigh you and your cat on your home scale first. Then, without moving your feet or changing position, hand off the kitty to someone else and the cat’s weight will be the difference.

PARVOVIRUS IN DOGS
PARVOVIRUS IN DOGS
THE DISEASE 
INTESTINAL FORM: Sadly, we see entirely too many cases of generally preventable parvovirus in puppies and occasionally, in unvaccinated adults. The deadly disease usually begins with lethargy and loss of appetite and progresses to vomiting, diarrhea, severe depression, dehydration, and finally death. As the diarrhea worsens, it becomes bloody and has an extremely foul odor. The severity of parvo disease depends upon body weight, age, environmental stresses, parasitism, other diseases, and the amount of immunity (antibodies) received from the mom. Without veterinary intervention, most afflicted puppies will become dehydrated, lose significant amounts of body fluids, go into shock, and pass away miserably. Unfortunately, even with treatment, a small percentage of these puppies will also die.
The longer the beginning of treatment is delayed, the more likely we will see an unsuccessful outcome. Several mutations of parvovirus have occurred. More recent mutations are more likely to cause disease and are more difficult to treat.
CARDIAC FORM: In this rare form of parvovirus, severe inflammation kills heart muscle cells, resulting in the deaths of puppies generally younger than 8 weeks of age. These pups exhibit extreme difficulty breathing as the heart fails.
ASYMPTOMATIC: Inadequately vaccinated adult dogs occasionally will contract parvovirus and exhibit few or no symptoms while still shedding the disease in their stool.
SOURCES AND SUSCEPTIBLITY
Unvaccinated (or recently recovered) dogs, wolves, coyotes, foxes, and other canids, are reservoirs (sources) of parvovirus. Infection is by ingestion of the virus from feces or vomit of infected animals. We see the disease most commonly where there are large numbers of unvaccinated dogs. Shelters are especially at risk. Though staff may vaccinate dogs upon arrival, new shelter residents may already be infected or may have poor immune responses because of stress, previous starvation, heavy parasitism, or other neglect.
There seems to be a lowered resistance in some breeds, especially the black/tan varieties. Doberman pinschers, rottweilers, pit bulls, German Shepherds, and dachshunds seem particularly prone to parvovirus. Most victims are puppies 6 weeks to 6 months of age.
DIAGNOSIS
Extreme lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea in a puppy make us consider parvovirus. Similar symptoms may accompany other conditions such as severe parasite burden, other viral or bacterial infections, hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, foreign body impaction, or physical restriction of the bowel (intussusception or tangling). The in-house fecal “snap test” for parvo is not perfect. It may show us a false negative because of the short time of viral shedding in the stool. It can also indicate a false positive if the puppy has been vaccinated in the last 5 to 15 days. Blood count, x-rays, and testing for intestinal parasites may also be helpful for a diagnosis.
TIME LINE:
· Puppy has oral exposure to vomit or feces of another canine with parvo. (This highly contagious virus can survive easily up to 7 months in the environment, longer if frozen in winter months.)
· Virus is in the blood stream by 3 to 5 days. (Usually, the puppy still seems normal at this point.)
· The puppy begins to shed highly contagious virus in stool 4 to 5 days after exposure.
· The puppy has early symptoms 5 to 14 days after exposure. (Rarely, early symptoms can be seen as early as 3 days after exposure.)
· Fecal shedding of virus is much less by 14 days after exposure, generally ending completely by 3 weeks. (Fecal material left on coat from highly viremic early diarrhea is still very contagious.)
TREATMENT
· FLUID REPLACEMENT is necessary to combat losses through vomiting and diarrhea.
o Intravenous (directly into the blood stream) fluids are necessary in severe cases and the patient must be hospitalized. This is the puppy’s best chance for a successful outcome.
o Subcutaneous (under the skin) fluids are not as effective but may be used in less severe cases. They can be done at home when the expense of veterinary intensive care is prohibitive.
PUPPY WEIGHT (LBS.) CC’S OF FLUIDS EVERY 12 HOURS
5 50 to 75
10 100 to 150
20 150 to 300
40 200 to 400
50 300 to 500
If the puppy seems to deteriorate at these levels, intravenous treatment is necessary. If fluids are accumulating at the sides of the chest and even down the legs, stop additional fluids until most of that is gone and then resume at a lower volume. Stay in touch with your veterinarian if you have questions or if the puppy does not improve.
o Blood transfusions from a well-vaccinated adult dog or addition of other more extreme fluid therapies may be necessary in some cases to combat shock and actual loss of protein and blood cells.
o Oral electrolytes help with hydration once vomiting is controlled. Pedialyte is readily available at pharmacies and can be used at a rate of two to four cc’s per pound body weight per hour depending upon the severity of fluid loss from diarrhea and vomiting. Large volumes all at one time will stimulate vomiting. If the puppy vomits immediately after oral fluids, discontinue them until drugs and time have lowered the sensitivity of the stomach.
· WARMTH (protect from temperature extremes)
o A carefully monitored heat pad (on low setting), separated from the puppy by a thick fleece or rug may be necessary for very small patients.
o Warm fluids by running a portion of the intravenous hose through a bowl of hot water in very depressed, cool puppies.
· ANTIEMETICS (drugs that block vomiting—provided by your veterinarian)
·
· ANALGESICS (for pain control—provided by your veterinarian only in extreme cases because of expense)
· DEWORMING (may have to wait a bit until the bowel is recovering)
FEEDING
In mild cases, using drugs to block vomiting may be effective enough so the puppy can continue to eat very small meals of bland food. Science Diet ID, boiled hamburger and rice with the grease completely skimmed off, plain yogurt, and cottage cheese all contain valuable nutrients to keep up the energy of a growing puppy. Avoid spicy foods like liverwurst, greasy meat, and other high fat foods.
We suggest that you give your antiemetic (Cerenia or metoclopromide) and then wait half an hour before first trying to feed your puppy. If your puppy vomits immediately after eating a very small meal, stop feeding it and continue with the hydration and the drug regimen prescribed by your veterinarian. When you see 6 to 8 hours without vomiting, you may try another very small snack (a teaspoon to a tablespoon, depending upon the size of your puppy). If that stays down for an hour, repeat that small amount every hour or two as you accustom the upset stomach to food again. Offer water or Pedialyte in the same way, just a little at a time, increasing as the puppy is able to keep it down.
DISINFECTION
One part bleach to thirty parts water is recommended to kill parvovirus on hard, smooth surfaces that will tolerate bleach (NEVER on a pet). Unfortunately, that is not an option for your sofa, carpet, or the soil outside in your yard. In these areas, clean up the actual physical residue as best you can, consider steam cleaning and quaternary ammonium cleaning products with viral capabilities indoors. Know that parvovirus may stay in the environment a year or more in soil or other porous, difficult to clean surfaces.
Once your puppy is recovering from parvovirus, bathe it well with antibacterial shampoo, allowing it to soak in the lather for 5 minutes before rinsing. Repeat a week later. Make sure that your puppy does not get chilled during its bath. Be a good citizen by not bringing your puppy around others for a couple of months after its recovery from parvovirus.
NEW PUPPY DANGER
After you have had a puppy with parvovirus on your premises, do NOT bring other unvaccinated puppies into that environment for a year or more! If you do get another puppy, leave it at the breeder’s facility or farm it out to friends/family until it is at least 4 months old and has had multiple vaccinations against parvo. For most breeds, we feel pretty confident that receiving the final “puppy shot” at 4 months will be protective. However, for some of the breeds more prone to parvo, an extra vaccination at 22 weeks (5 ½ months) would give more assured protection.
PREVENTION
Protection from parvovirus begins with the mom. Many careful breeders booster a bitch’s vaccinations just before breeding her. This will give her colostrum maximum antibodies against disease. The mom needs to be in good health to whelp vigorous puppies and to have plenty of milk for them. Puppies need to get a generous dose of colostrum right away after birth. Their ability to absorb its protective antibodies decreases to nearly zero by the end of the first 24 hours.
other. With time, the antibodies die off naturally. Since we don’t know exactly when each puppy’s maternal protection gets too low to be useful, we give a series of “puppy shots” that include parvo. Typically, these begin at 6 to 8 weeks and are given every 2 to 3 weeks, depending upon likelihood of exposure. Keep puppies away from other puppies or places where dogs congregate during this sensitive period. We assume in most breeds that the final “puppy shot” is given when the puppy is 4 months old and should protect it from parvovirus. High risk breeds may opt for another at 22 weeks (5 ½ months) as well.
DIABETES MELLITUS (DM) IN CATS
In diabetes mellitus (DM), the pancreas does not produce enough insulin for the body to use sugars, fats, and proteins efficiently. Uncommon Type I DM is simply too little insulin production within the pancreas. However, Type II DM, affects 85 to 95% of diabetic cats when their cells become resistant to the normal amounts of insulin produced by the pancreas. We diagnose DM when we find high blood sugar (glucose) and accompanying sugar in the urine.
CAUSES
The dramatic rise of DM in cats parallels the same phenomenon in people and mirrors the increasing obesity among both species. Factors linked to DM are:
· Obesity (easily the most important link)
· Chronic pancreatitis
· High carbohydrate diets
· Other hormonal diseases (hyperthyroidism, Cushing’s disease, acromegaly)
· Extensive use of steroids
SYMPTOMS
In healthy cats, when blood sugar (glucose) is high, the pancreas releases insulin. That insulin pushes excess glucose into cells where it can be used for immediate energy or stored for later use. With insufficient insulin, diabetic kitties accumulate too much glucose in the blood. While their body cells are starving for this sugar, their kidneys remove excess blood glucose and lose it completely into the urine. This is why diabetic cats eat more than usual but eventually lose weight.
The first symptoms of DM are usually increased thirst and urination. Because sugar draws water to go with it, kidneys have to work harder and harder to keep hydration normal. Sugar in the urine predisposes to bladder infections. We hope to catch DM at this point, before more severe metabolic changes take place. In cats, early diagnosis increases the likelihood of actually reversing diabetes and eventually getting eliminating the need for insulin injections. Look for:
· Increased thirst and urination
· Increased appetite, especially when coupled with weight loss
· Poor skin condition and hair coat, less self-grooming
· Weakness in the hind legs (diabetic neuropathy)
· Cataracts (rarely)
As starving body cells continue to demand more glucose, body fat breaks down rapidly, causing liver complications and accumulations of ketones (byproducts of fat breakdown) in the blood, spilling into the urine. The compromised cat feels very ill and loses appetite. Systemic collapse is near with deadly electrolyte imbalances and metabolic failure. This condition is known as diabetic ketoacidosis and is a severe emergency. Watch for these later stage symptoms of uncontrolled diabetes:
· Lethargy, weakness
· Decreased appetite
· Vomiting and diarrhea
· Dehydration
· Difficulty in breathing, collapse
INSULIN
In most cases, giving additional insulin by injection lowers blood sugar and allows it into the cells needing it for energy. Cats metabolize most insulins fairly rapidly and so they generally require insulin every 12 hours. Insulin is fragile. Too hot or too cold or excessive shaking may change its potency. Remember the following:
· Check the expiration date on the bottle
· Keep refrigerated (not frozen)
· Do not shake bottle
· Never insert a used needle into the bottle
Insulin syringes are not all calibrated the same. Use the right syringe for your insulin brand. Syringes with ½ inch 29 gauge needles work well.
· U40 syringes (available in 20 or 40 unit volumes) are used for Vetsulin and PZI and have 40 U per cc of insulin.
· U100 syringes (available in 100, 50, or 30 unit volumes) are used for Glargine (Lantus) and have 100 U per cc of insulin. For the small doses required in cats, purchase the 30 unit syringes (.3cc) for most accurate dosing.
·
1. Choose a time when you can regularly be home to give insulin 12 hours apart.
2.
3. Roll insulin bottle between your palms to mix gently.
4. Remove needle cover and protective cap from plunger on syringe.
5. Draw back plunger to pull air into the syringe, about equal to the amount of insulin to be used.
6.
7. Draw plunger back slowly, pulling in a little more insulin than you will actually need.
8. Keeping bottle and syringe vertical, tap syringe barrel with finger nail to force air bubbles to rise to the top.
9.
10. Pull up loose skin anywhere on the back or sides of your patient, creating a tent between your fingers.
11. Push needle completely through one layer of skin, into the pocket that is formed by the skin. Push needle all the way in being careful not to go completely through to other side. (Do not keep any finger on the plunger lest you squirt out insulin before you have positioned the needle under the skin.)
12. Assure yourself that the tip of the needle is completely under the skin and then inject the insulin.
13. Pinch the skin as you remove the needle. This helps to close the tiny hole you have created.
14. Twelve hours later, repeat the process.
15. Occasionally, your kitty may move just as you are injecting insulin and you may have doubts that all the insulin has gone under the skin as it should. Do NOT give additional insulin at that point. Simply wait the 12 hours until the next injection is due and proceed as normal.
16. Two short videos demonstrating filling the syringe and injecting insulin are available at http://www.prozinc.us/video.aspx#how .
FEEDING YOUR DIABETIC CAT
We feed DM cats a high protein, low carbohydrate, high fiber diet. High protein sates their appetite, helps promote weight loss, and mimics natural rodent and bird diets. Low carbohydrate and high fiber prolong digestion time to prevent the sugar peaks and keep blood glucose more level. Important note: DM cats with poor kidney function should NOT be on high protein food.
Remember that treats need to be low carb, low sugar, or maybe just discontinued.
We usually start cats on Science Diet MD. In cats that are still overweight, we prefer the canned variety. In thin cats, the dry MD gives the diabetic cat more caloric intake. Science Diet WD is a second option if your cat would like another choice.
There are many other foods on the market. Here are the figures from MD for comparison if you are searching for an alternative.
· Science Diet MD canned
o protein: 13.1% (as fed) or 52.8% (dry matter)
o fat: 4.8% (as fed) or 19.4% (dry matter)
o carbohydrate (NFE): 3.9% (as fed) or 15.7% (dry matter)
o crude fiber: 1.5% (as fed) or 6% (dry matter)
· Science Diet MD dry
o protein: 48.9% (as fed) or 52% (dry matter)
o fat: 20.7% (as fed) or 22% (dry matter)
o carbohydrate (NFE): 14.6% (as fed) or 15.5% (dry matter)
o crude fiber: 5.2% (as fed) or 5.5% (dry matter)
· FEEDING THE OVERWEIGHT CAT FOR WEIGHT LOSS (SCIENCE DIET MD)
IDEAL WEIGHT (LBS.) 5.5 OZ. CANS DRY--CUPS
5
2/3
1/4
10
1
3/8
15
1 ½
1/2
· FEEDING ADULT MAINTENANCE DIET (SCIENCE DIET MD)
WEIGHT (LBS.) 5.5 OZ. CANS DRY (CUPS)
5
1
1/3
10
1 2/3
½
15
2 ¼
¾
Diabetic cats should eat most of the first half of their daily food allowance just before the first insulin injection in the morning and most of the other half about 12 hours later, just before the night-time injection. “Grazer” cats, especially thin ones, should be left with some dry food for during the day to help them maintain an adequate weight. Cats on weight loss plans can have only a few tiny snacks during the day.
Weigh your kitty regularly. Obese cats should not lose more than 2% of their body weight per week as we try to slim them down. For a 15 pound cat, that is a little less than 1/3 pound per week. More rapid weight loss may lead to liver disease.
MONITORING BLOOD SUGAR
Initially, your veterinarian will start insulin at a low dose. Continue at that dose for at least a week before beginning to make any alterations. You will need to monitor blood glucose to eventually find the proper dosage and to monitor changes in your cat’s insulin needs. With insulin and proper feeding, we try to keep blood glucose between 75 and 250. Stay in communication with your veterinarian to help you with your adjustments. Whenever you increase the insulin dosage, try to do it on a day when you will be home to monitor your cat’s response.
(Most cats only require around 3 to 5 units of insulin every 12 hours. Rarely a cat may become “insulin resistant”, defined as requiring more than one unit per pound for regulation OR all glucose levels consistently over 300 all during the day in spite of receiving 6 to 8 units of insulin per dose.)
· Observe clinical symptoms. Note excessive urination, thirst, urinating outside the litter box, behavior changes, and physical changes (especially continued weight loss). A well-controlled diabetic returns to “normal” cat behavior.
· Urine testing is inexpensive. Urine glucose/ketone strips are available at your pharmacy. While urine does not give you an up to the minute glucose reading, it does tell you if sugar was too high during part of the time during which the urine was formed. It is often easiest to get the first urine of the morning when kitty begins to stir. Some pets will allow you to stick a test strip into the urine stream as they go. With more shy cats, you may have to put some plastic wrap in the litter box so that some of the urine pools on it. Some kitty owners put only a handful of litter into the litter box when they are seeking a sample. Not all the urine will be soaked up and the pooled excess can be tested. Test only fresh urine. Urine testing will NOT alert you to dangerously low glucose levels
o After a week of continual glucose positive results, raise the insulin dose by ½ unit and continue that for 5 to 7 days. Report each dose change to your veterinarian so periodic blood testing can confirm what you are finding!
o If urine test strips continue to be positive for the next 5 to 7 days, raise the insulin again by ½ unit and continue testing.
o Continue this process until you begin to see slight positive or negative test strips. Then, make an appointment to have a blood glucose curve, a series of timed glucose tests, so that your veterinarian can make sure that you levels are not dropping too low during your cat’s lowest points of the day.
o If positive ketones are found on your test strip 3 days in a row, contact your veterinarian.
o When a maintenance dose is established, continue to monitor with urine test strips weekly and note any other changes in thirst or urination, other symptoms of DM.
·
· Check out http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-test.htm for some excellent pointers and http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=605 for an actual video.
· In the early stages of regulating your cat’s insulin dose, keep a chart of glucose levels including time taken, amount of food eaten, and any pertinent behavior patterns that follow. Good times to check blood glucose are just before injecting insulin and about 4 to 6 hours later, when it should have its peak effect. With blood testing, you can detect both high and the dangerously low glucose levels.
o Begin with the insulin dose determined by your veterinarian and continue at that dose for a week to 10 days even if blood glucose remains high.
o Then, if glucose has remained high (above 300) raise dose by ½ unit on a day when you can be home to observe your cat. Report new dose to your veterinarian. Check blood glucose just before injection and 4 to 6 hours later. Continue 5 to 7 days at this dose.
o Continue increasing by ½ unit per week or two until, ideally, glucose levels remain between 70 and 250. Report each dose change to your veterinarian.
· Fructosamine testing at your veterinarian’s office one to four times per year gives you a long term view of how well your cat’s DM has been controlled over time.
· Continuous glucose monitoring systems are high tech (and around $1000). Medtronic makes the Guardian RT that displays glucose levels every 5 minutes on a small monitor that can be attached to kitty’s collar. An implanted wireless sensor transmits this information and it can be downloaded to a computer to make an elaborate glucose curve printout.
DANGEROUS BLOOD GLUCOSE LEVELS
TOO HIGH: If your cat’s blood glucose levels continually test high, work with your veterinarian to increase insulin dosages slowly. Uncontrolled DM results in kidney failure, cataracts, heart disease, emaciation, and other life-threatening metabolic changes. Insulin demand may increase with weight gain, age, inappropriate diet, or sometimes because your cat’s immune system begins to attack the injected insulin as a foreign substance.
TOO LOW: Too rapid insulin increases can sometimes overshoot actual insulin need. This can result in an odd mechanism, the Somogyi effect, where the stress of prolonged low blood glucose causes the body to create an emergency high blood glucose response. By checking blood glucose at that moment in time, it can easily be misinterpreted as a need for even higher insulin levels until the cat’s whole system collapses.
Keep excellent records of insulin dosages and glucose readings to help make dose change decisions. Even after you think you have found the magic number that keeps your cat perfectly tuned, weight loss or healthier eating habits may lower the dose or occasionally even eliminate the need for insulin injections. Weight gain and other health issues may increase your cat’s insulin needs.
Owners of cats on insulin need to beware of the diabetic “crash” or excessively low blood glucose. Some cats, especially after correction of obesity, may totally “outgrow” their need for insulin and can be managed by proper feeding alone. Many things can lower the need for insulin:
· Suddenly decreased appetite or change in nutrient content of food
· Increased exercise
· Changes in other metabolic diseases
· Other illness, infections, and treatment (bladder infections are common causes of fluctuations)
· Weight loss
Blood glucose is the fuel going to the cells to keep them functioning. When glucose levels drop too low, cells and then systems begin to fail and we see:
· Behavioral changes
· Weakness and depression
· Anxiety, muscle twitching
· Seizures
· Coma leading to death
LOW BLOOD SUGAR EMERGENCY TREATMENT
· Keep white corn syrup on hand.
· If your cat is showing mild symptoms and you are capable of home blood testing, sample your cat before treating to confirm your suspicions.
· If symptoms are more severe, even if your pet is in a coma, rub a little corn syrup into his mouth with your finger. (Do not use large volumes because your cat may not be able to swallow.)
· Contact your veterinarian.
· If help is far away, repeat the corn syrup as needed until your cat is able to swallow. Offer kitty’s favorite food and encourage eating.
· Speak to your veterinarian before giving the next dose of insulin.
THE DISEASE
Shaving an area on your cats back will make beginning insulin users more sure of injecting just under the skin. Follow these steps to success:
Blood testing at home might be easier than you think. Home blood testing is generally more accurate than the same testing done in a veterinary clinic because blood glucose may change considerably with the stress of the trip to the vet. In some kitties, it is easier than trying to get that elusive urine sample. Lancets or small needles are used to prick the ear vein or that tiny drop of blood. There are many home use glucometers available.
Ticked Off—New Info on Lyme Disease
Gretchen Wilson DVM
Blame it on global warming (warmer winters), less snow, increased deer populations, or natural tick population cycles; Lyme disease caused by a Borrelia species and spread by feeding ticks, is on the rise and has been for several years. Canines typically do not show symptoms of early infection as humans do. Instead, they commonly develop fever, lamenesses, arthritis, swollen and painful lymph nodes, and general soreness 2 to 6 months after contracting the disease. Less often, some animals go on to develop neurologic disease , severe, generally fatal kidney disease or heart complications.
This upsurge in Lyme disease cases was first noted in our clinic in 2004 with about 60 cases. In the ten years previous to that added together, we had not seen nearly 60 cases. In 2005, we saw double that number. This year, we already have diagnosed 41 positives for Lyme disease, many with the typical symptoms, some seemingly normal. The test only tells us that they are exposed and may or may not develop signs of disease.
The drugs used to treat Lyme disease remain the same as in recent years. However, the suggested dosage of doxycycline has doubled and the length of the treatment has increased. Current research indicates that the Borrelia organism may never be completely eliminated from the system, simply retreating into tissues like cartilage that have a poorer blood supply to carry the antibiotics. Here, it repeatedly changes its capsule components to evade the immune system of its host. Interestingly, the antibody defenses created by the dog in response to Lyme vaccines, only work within the tick itself. As the first antibody laden blood is ingested by the tick, these immune defenses interfere with functions of the Borrelia within the tick, blocking transmission to the dog.
Unfortunately, the Borrelia organism that causes Lyme disease has some new tick-born friends in our state with increasing numbers of cases as well. Our bumper crop of varying species of ticks is busily infecting animals (and people) with Erlichia, Anaplasmosis, Babesia, and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever as well. These may cause different combinations of the symptoms of Lyme disease listed above as well as more cases of neurological disease, eye lesions, and bleeding and blood disorders. Some dogs are found to be positive for more than one of these diseases.
Short of moving out of the area, we do have some things that will greatly decrease the chances of infection with any of these organisms. First of all, limit exposure. Ticks come out of tall grass, so, if plausible, mow or spray areas frequented by yourself and your pets. Do not depend upon being able to find and remove ticks before the 24 to 48 hours of attachment thought necessary for disease transmission. Many animals are infected by immature forms or small species that are very difficult to see even in short-coated pets. Spray any attached tick with a tick killing product before removing it. You will be more likely to get all of the head. Veterinarians often have to finish removing embedded tick heads that have caused severe inflammation.
Begin to vaccinate as early as 9 weeks of age and yearly for Lyme disease in dogs, even if you do not think they will find ticks. We have had to treat Chihuahuas and poms and other small house dogs that owners thought were never exposed. For dogs or cats, as young as 8 weeks, use fipronil (Front-Line Plus®) spot-on treatment monthly, avoiding bathing or swimming for a few days before or after application. In the last couple of years, we have seen ticks all through the winter months. It is very important to continue application throughout the year, especially for outdoor pets. Most of the cases we are seeing now were probably infected during this past winter.
Remember that with fipronil, the tick needs to bite the dog to be killed. So, if your pet is in a severe exposure situation, also use a flea and tick collar containing amitraz (Preventic®) to repel ticks even before they bite (and before they are carried into the house, potentially exposing you and your family).
Veterinarians have a simple in-house test for Lyme and erlichiosis (also includes heartworm). By the middle of this summer, this test should also include anaplasmosis. This test diagnoses current infections in pets that are ill and symptomatic, but also is an important screening tool to let us know of a problem during the 2 to 6 months before signs of disease are likely to appear. This increases likelihood of successful treatment and may even allow your veterinarian to prevent the death of your pet. Remember that this article pertains primarily to dogs and somewhat to cats, but we hope all of you out there are taking proper precautions for yourselves as well!
Edgar Allen Poe—Died of Rabies?
When Poe, known for his ghoulish tales, was found unconscious on the steps of the Baltimore Museum in September of 1849, he was hospitalized with tremors, hallucinations, difficulty drinking, and delirium. He died shortly afterwards. Poe's symptoms may have also included anxiety, insomnia, and salivation. Many now believe that he had contracted rabies, probably from a bite or scratches from an infected cat, as cats were favorites of his. Do you put yourself in similar danger today?
Rabies is a viral disease spread by saliva and neural fluids of infected mammals, causing deadly inflammation of the brain. Rarely, it is air-borne in laboratories or bat caves and a handful of cases have resulted from tissue transplants. In humans, rabies incubates for 20 to 60 days while following nerve pathways toward the brain. Only during the early phase of this migration, are preventative vaccines effective. Once neurological symptoms appear, generally death soon follows, regardless of any treatments. Historically, rabies has been a footnote since a little before 1320 BC. In the exploration of the Americas, Spanish soldiers who died after being bitten on their toes while sleeping, were probably victims of rabid vampire bats.
Though rabies is still a prevalent disease in many other countries, routine pet vaccinations have markedly decreased but not erased this ugly killer in the United States. Preventative vaccinations in humans help to protect those who are unusually at risk by travel or significant exposure to animals. Rabies vaccinations in our pets are virtually 100% effective. Since rabies inoculations are mandated by law in dogs over 6 months of age, now cats whose vaccinations are often unregulated, have surpassed the canines in numbers of cases. Wisconsin law does not call for rabies vaccinations of cats, but the City of Ashland has stepped forward with its own regulation, requiring registration of cats which requires their vaccinations for rabies. Municipalities should publicly present available video coverage of the grotesque time-lapsed death of a human rabies victim. Then, cats and probably more horses would soon get the simple protection they need. It is sad that we require legislation to ordain what should be common sense.
Our main sources of rabies infection are now in wildlife—usually bats, skunks, raccoons, and wild canines. Small rodents and rabbits do not seem to be capable of transmission to other species but beavers, woodchucks, and groundhogs are. From 1990 to 2000, bats are blamed for 24 of the 32 reported cases of human rabies. Their bites are small and may go undetected. The CDC (Centers for Disease Control) suggests that people should seek medical attention even if they only find a bat in the room when they awaken or in the room of an unattended child, disabled person, or intoxicated person. Be especially suspicious of bats that are active during the day, found in an abnormal place, or cannot seem to fly. Catch the bat for testing if at all possible. Instructions on the CDC website say to wear leather gloves, put a container over the bat, slide a cardboard under the opening, tape shut, and deliver to your local veterinarian or health department. Testing may save the trauma and considerable expense of rabies post exposure preventative treatment. Bats' voracious appetites for insects are extremely important to the ecosystem in many ways and so their eradication is not a valid answer to the problem.
Rabies is an issue in Wisconsin and here in Ashland! A bat bite caused rabies in the 15 year old girl who made news in Fond du Lac County in 2004 for being the first to survive rabies once the neurological symptoms appeared. Our clinic's last positive rabies case was a bat indoors, in a jacket sleeve, biting the unfortunate (and surprised) owner of the jacket. Protect yourself best by vaccinating your pets! This may also prevent euthanizing your pet or paying for fines and exams and an expensive isolation in the fairly common dog or cat bite incident. Even the cat that never leaves the house is susceptible to the rabid bat that gets in.
If you think that an exposure may have occurred from pets or wildlife, wash the wound immediately and call your doctor. Let the medical profession wade through the complicated protocols that decide what course of treatment, if any, should be followed. If you are curious and would like to learn more, there is a website that is fairly easy to understand. Check out the Wisconsin Rabies Prevention Flowchart. Shall we say Poe's "Nevermore" to the rabies that knocketh at our door?
OK for You (maybe)—Poison for Your Pet!!
Our pets often want to eat what we do and that can be unhealthy or even deadly. "Table scraps" are frequently too spicy or too fatty for them, causing vomiting and diarrhea and even life-threatening pancreatitis. Hot dogs, gravies, poultry skins, fat trimmings, and casseroles are common sources of such problems and also the accompanying obesity that seems to plague many pets and owners alike. However, there are a number of human foods which are surprisingly toxic to our good four-legged friends.
Xylitol is an artificial sweetener found in gum, mints, vitamins, baked goods, and beverages. Read your labels! It is much more rapidly absorbed in dogs than in people and will cause low blood sugar and sudden, severe liver disease. These can lead to vomiting, staggering, collapse, seizures, and death. Ingestion of as little as .008 oz. of the actual sweetener per pound of pet or let's say 5 cookies or 40 pieces of gum for your 25 pound dog, can kill.
Raisins and grapes can cause vomiting and diarrhea leading to rapid kidney failure within 24 hours. As few as 5 or 6 of these fruits can cause the death of some average cats or small dogs.
Onions and garlic are sometimes eaten as they are flavored with meat juices. Dogs and cats need to eat them in fairly large amounts to see problems. They can cause digestive upsets first and then, may progress to destruction of red blood cells, anemia, and in extreme cases, death. Many pets will treat themselves by vomiting anything so spicy on their own.
Chocolate and caffeine (methylxanthines) are deadly in fairly small amounts. Dark chocolate is a more concentrated source than the light milk chocolate. Your dearest dog only needs to eat .11 oz. of baker's chocolate per pound of body weight (or 2.75 oz. for that 25 pound Rover) to possibly die. It is not quite so bad with semi-sweet chocolate at .33 oz. per pound of pup (8.4 oz. for a 25 pound dog). Milk chocolate weighs in at 1 oz. per dog pound potentially lethal (25 oz. for a 25 pound dog). Symptoms of toxicity are seizures, urination, diarrhea, and vomiting.
Bread dough has yeast that ferments in the stomach and releases an alcohol (ethanol) causing alcohol poisoning. In the warm stomach environment, it also rises rapidly, causing extreme expansion of the stomach which leads to serious crowding of the lungs in the chest. The alcohol causes symptoms of drunkenness and the expansion of the dough in the stomach eventually results in unproductive attempts to vomit and difficulty breathing. Induction of vomiting must be done right away, before the bites of bread dough become too large to pass back out of the stomach.
Drugs (over the counter and prescription) cause a variety of problems when eaten accidentally or when given as a treatment. Tylenol and ibuprofen are toxic to both dogs and cats, aspirin is toxic to cats and all are commonly misused. (Pepto-Bismol and Kaopectate have aspirin in them!) Always check with your veterinarian before using any drugs and realize that pet dosages may vary greatly from human ones if they are tolerated at all.
Alcoholic beverages are obviously not suited for our pets. It is not cute or intelligent to leave alcohol where pets can lap it or to offer any amounts to them. This is especially true of our very small friends. If you offer your 5 pound Yorkie an ounce of beer and you weigh 200 pounds, you will have given him a dose equivalent to your drinking 40 oz. of beer in an equal amount of time. That is binge drinking and we all know where it can lead.
Hallucinogenics (marijuana, cocaine, mushrooms, etc) can lead to rapid heart rates, confusion, incoordination, seizures, and death. Remember that body size has a lot to do with the amount necessary for a lethal dose. Yes, sadly, we occasionally see these cases.
When faced with the possibility of any of the above ingestions, involve your veterinarian in treatment decisions right away. Remember that minimizing time is extremely important and you may be asked to immediately induce vomiting by syringing or spooning hydrogen peroxide into your pet's mouth, tilting the head back slightly, and being very careful to do small portions at a time to allow normal breathing. Amounts vary and you may continue adding more until vomiting does occur. It generally takes about 1/8 to 2/3 cup in that 25 pound pooch. Unfortunately, alcohol is absorbed so quickly that by the time you know you have a problem, it may be already too late for vomiting to reduce absorption.
So, know what toxins are in your house and do not tempt fate by leaving them easily accessible by your "four-legged children". Keep some hydrogen peroxide and your veterinarian's phone number readily available. Notice any odd behaviors and investigate possible causes. Give those good buddies a big hug and know that you are doing your best to keep them safe and happy!
Treat Your Pet's Pain Without Surgery or Meds!
At one time, people and animals alike had to tolerate pain and just "buck up" to get through it. Now, we know that pain actually slows healing and we humans expect relief. Well, so can our pets! The new Class IV Therapy Laser penetrates deeply into tissues to bring amazing healing, decreased swelling, and blessed reprieve from chronic arthritis, acute trauma, surgeries, and miscellaneous wounds.
We have been using our therapy laser and seeing great results since October of 2007. Our clinic mascot dog, Chocolate, was our first volunteer. A 14 1/2 years old terrier mix, he is missing the cartilage in two places between vertebrae in his back. Before treatment, he cried out occasionally when navigating stairs and he walked slowly with an arch in his back. He did not eat well. Chocolate had been on a major pain relief medication for two years already before laser treatment. The day after only one five minute session, he seemed much improved. When he had completed the recommended 6 treatments, he seemed to be a new dog. Now, he runs up and down the stairs, plays, gets toys out of his box and shakes them. He can jump easily into his favorite chair and his appetite has increased greatly. We have our old dog back again, happy, healthy, and playful once more. He has not needed any oral pain medications since his six treatments in October. Perhaps your best four-legged friend is a candidate for this new kind of therapy.
What is the science behind this novel treatment? The therapy laser generates photons of light that penetrate deeply into inflamed joints, muscles, or wounds. Patients feel only a mild warmth. Tissue cells absorb photons and turn them into useful energy that stimulates increased metabolic activity, better oxygenation, and formation of healing enzymes. Faster metabolism and optimum chemical factors then result in quicker cellular reproduction and tissue repair. This light energy stimulates more rapid formation of new capillaries that speed healing and it activates lymphatic drainage to reduce swelling. Beneficial
effects also occur outside the specifically targeted area. This laser light helps to strengthen immunity by activating immunoglobulins and lymphocytes which protect the body from disease.
Patients who will likely benefit from laser therapy are those in whom we can localize and target the damaged tissues. Hip dysplasia, back injuries that are either chronic or new, bad knees or elbows, are all candidates for laser therapy. In addition, strains and sprains, surgeries, and many types of wounds will respond to this treatment. Therapy laser applications in horses abound, especially where drugs are not allowed for performance competition.
Sometimes, a single therapy session is adequate. For more involved cases, the recommended protocol is to treat the pet three times spread within the first week, two times in the second week, and once in the third week. Then, repeat in six months as needed. We are excited to add this new dimension to our pain control regime. Stop by and visit with Chocolate and he will be happy to tell you more about it!